It is a brightening pigment blocking peptide.
]]>Phytol has been demonstrated to significantly attenuate melanin production by reducing the expression of tyrosinase and tyrosinase related protein 1. Phytol suppressed α-MSH-induced melanogenesis in B16F10 murine melanoma cells without inducing any toxic effects. Phytol inhibited hyperpigmentation by degrading MITF through ROS-induced ERK phosphorylation. Studies suggest that phytol can be used as a skin-whitening ingredient, therapeutic agent against hyperpigmentation-related skin diseases, and cosmetic agent.
]]>Peptides with EGF that penetrate the skin when applied topically have been developed; cosmeceuticals with EGF that prevent or improve wrinkles and hydrate the skin without significant side effects are being formulated.
EGF is a noninvasive and effective treatment for melasma. The EGF acts on the melanocytes by reducing the expression of melanogenesis‐associated proteins (e.g. tyrosinase/MITF microphthalmia-associated transcription factor), in consequence inhibiting or regulating melanin synthesis. It is also effective in preventing post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation after fractional CO2 laser treatment; its daily application resulted in significant stimulation of healing with slight pruritus.
Topical serum twice a day for 8 weeks decreased melasma in 73.4% cases of the experimental group without any side effects. Other research confirmed that EGF prevents inflammatory hyper pigmentation by laser treatment at 3, 7, and 35 days after its use.
EGF contributes to restructuring the skin tissue; it improves facial acne, both inflammatory and noninflammatory, when it is applied as an EGF cream for 6 weeks. It also decreases sebum production and increases hydration, whereby the topical EGF may be an effective and safe adjuvant treatment option for mild to moderate vulgar acne.
Tranexamic Acid - A synthetic derivative of the amino acid L-Lysine, that has shown promise in reducing unwanted pigmentation via tyrosinase inhibition and reduction in Prostaglandin E2 production. It also acts as a UV induced pigment inhibitor. Tranexamic acid works especially well when used in combination with other brightening agents like niacinamide and vitamin C. You can also use it in combination with retinoids; it can actually maximize the skin-enhancing benefits of these vitamin A derivatives, including helping fade sunspots and age spots.
Ascorbyl glucoside is a water-soluble form of vitamin C that's combined with glucose, a sugar. In the world of vitamin C and its derivatives, l-ascorbic acid is the most potent, pure version. Once ascorbyl glucoside is absorbed into the skin, an enzyme called alpha-glucosidas breaks it down into l-ascorbic acid. This is why you then get all those awesome vitamin C effects such as skin-brightening and wrinkle-smoothing, but, in this case, because it's undergone a conversion process, it's much less likely to cause irritation.
]]>Atelocollagen is an advanced molecule that can be absorbed deep into the dermal and basal tissue, helping to activate dermal cell regeneration. Topical atelocollagen is the only bioactive topical collagen that can actually stimulate fibroblasts and collagen renewal.
Topical purified atelocollagen shows dramatic results when treating scarring and aging skin conditions; it stimulates cell renewal and collagen formation in the skin. Hydrolyzed collagen, on the other hand, will only moisturize the skin.
]]>
Asiatic Acid stimulates glycosaminoglycan production as well as collagen I synthesis. In addition, it also improves tensile strength of the skin.
]]>
Azelaic acid has a ton of benefits for the skin, including helping with hyperpigmentation and reducing inflammation. Because it's anti-inflammatory, it can be helpful in treating acne and rosacea. It also inhibits tyrosinase, an enzyme involved in the production of pigment cells and melanin, meaning it can prevent buildup of pigmentation that leads to dark spots.
Azelaic acid is applied to your skin and is available in gel, foam, and cream form. Azelex and Finacea are two brand names for prescription topical preparations. They contain 15 percent or more of azelaic acid. Some over-the-counter products contain smaller amounts.
Because it takes some time to take effect, azelaic acid by itself isn’t typically a dermatologist’s first choice for treating acne. The acid also has some side effects, such as skin burning, dryness, and peeling.
]]>Acetyl Tetrapeptide-3 is a promising ingredient in the fight against hair loss. Acetyl Tetrapeptide-3 is a biomimetic peptide made up of 4 main amino acids that help to stimulate the dermal papilla extracellular matrix proteins which in turn has a direct effect on the structures surrounding hair follicles.
According to the manufacturer’s lab studies, the expression of type III collagen increased by 65% and the expression of laminins (anchoring proteins found in the ECM) was up a massive 285%, resulting in a stronger ECM bed for hair anchoring.
]]>An amino acid sugar that aids in wound healing, minimizes wrinkles and helps inhibit melanin production.
Combined with skincare superstar niacinamide the duo is synergistic and is more effective at improving hyperpigmentation, so if you are after the skin-lightening benefit look out for products that contain both.
]]>Some amino acids work as antioxidants; however, most of them are believed to play an even greater role by helping skin create more of its own antioxidants, such as glutathione (an antioxidant produced in cells, comprised largely of glutamine, glycine, and cysteine). Topically applied amino acids help strengthen skin’s natural defense system, making it less likely to show signs of aging from environmental damage. Research has shown that synthetic amino acids often have greater hydrating ability than animal- or plant-derived amino acids.
]]>]]>
Bisabolol, which is also known as alpha bisabolol or a-bisabolol, is an active ingredient in chamomile. Bisabolol is a common skin care ingredient due to its anti-inflammatory, anti-aging, and anti-microbial qualities.
Some of its benefits include: hydration, protection against free radicals, soothing, antimicrobial (can kill bacteria and reduce breakouts), and stimulation of the skin’s healing response, helping to reduce scarring and blemishes. Helps you achieve a clearer, more even complexion.
]]>Why I prefer substitutes to benzoyl peroxide…
Benzoyl peroxide is VERY drying may cause skin irritation in people with sensitive skin. In some people, it can cause oil glands to kick into over-drive to produce more sebum so you end up in a vicious dry/oily cycle. When oily skin becomes dehydrated, the surface layers of cells harden up and block oil secretion. The result is an entrapment of the oils under the stratum corneum layer. This is particularly detrimental in the case of someone with acne because it also results in the entrapment of the infection. I much prefer the use of glycolic acid, lactic acid, and salicylic acid when dealing with acne, along with good moisturizers. The use of glycolic and lactic acids (also exfoliating agents) can activate the water-retention capability of glycosaminoglycans and normalize epidermal structure, stimulate the production of hyaluronic acid, collagen, and elastin and can be complemented with ingredients that add moisture to the skin, such as glycerin, niacinamide, urea, and hyaluronic acid. Salicylic acid - a beta hydroxy acid (BHA) commonly used as an acne active, can be a more effective when paired with glycolic acid.
]]>
Biotinoyl tripeptide-1 increases the population of anagen hair, which is the active growth phase of hair follicles. It provokes the cells in the roots to divide more rapidly, having an impressive impact on eyelash growth in particular. Biotin tripeptide-1 stimulates the production of adhesion molecules collagen IV and laminin 5 in dermal and epidermal cells (which helps with hair anchorage).
The manufacturer did some in-vitro studies that show the molecule can localize to human hair follicles, inducing keratinocyte proliferation, increasing hair growth by 58% and 121% compared with control follicles when used at concentrations of 2 and 5 ppm, respectively.
Eye lashes appeared over 19% thicker after 30 days of using serum formulations containing Biotinoyl Tripeptide-1.
]]>