A-Z — Alpha Hydroxy Acid (AHA)

Alpha Hydroxy Acid (AHA) — the family name for a group of naturally occurring acids often referred to as “fruit acids.”  AHAs are used in cosmetics as moisturizers, emollients, and exfoliants. They are also employed to treat such conditions as photodamage, hyperpigmentation, eczema, and ichthyosis. Their activity and associated benefits are dependent on the type of AHA used, the concentration employed, and the pH of the formula. The benefits attributed to AHAs include a reduction of fine lines and superficial wrinkles, a lightening of surface pigmentation, and softer, suppler skin with improved hydration. These noted benefits are a result of...

Lactic Acid (sodium lactate) — (see also Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs)) an alpha hydroxy acid, an exfoliating agent. It can help normalize epidermal structure, and stimulate the production of hyaluronic acid, collagen, and elastin. Lactic acid is a  component of the skin’s natural moisturizing factor, and has better water intake than glycerin. Studies indicate an ability to increase the water-retention capacity of the stratum corneum. They also show that the pliability of the stratum corneum layer is closely related to the absorption of lactic acid; the greater the amount of absorbed lactic acid, the more pliable the stratum corneum layer....

Malic acid — (see also Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs)) the third smallest AHA in terms of molecular size. Although it is used in numerous cosmetic products, particularly those indicating a “fruit acid” content and generally designed for anti-aging, unlike glycolic and lactic acids, its skin benefits have not been extensively studied. Some formulators consider it difficult to work with, particularly when compared to other AHAs, and it can be somewhat irritating. It is rarely used as the only AHA in a product. It is found naturally occurring in apples.