Glossary - A to Z

Willow Bark Extract

Willow Bark Extract is a source of natural "salicylic acid-like" ingredients which has been shown to contribute effects similar to those seen from synthetic salicylic acid with none of the drawbacks associated with its use, primarily irritation.  Willow Bark Extract has been found to increase stratum corneum turnover 2% more so than salicylic acid - 24% as opposed to 22%. In vitro tests have shown Willow Bark Extract to have activity against Staphylococcus aureus and Propionibacterium acnes, the two strains of bacteria implicated in the formation of acne, as such it may prove useful in targeted facial cleaners, toners and lotion formulas. It has proven...

Read more


Western Red cedar essential oil

Western Red cedar essential oil (see Hinokitiol; Beta-Thujaplicin) — valuable for use on skin eruptions and to relieve itching. It is good for acne and oily skin, and could be helpful in cases of dermatitis, eczema, and psoriasis. The extract contains hinokitiol, a superpower ingredient that has anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, antibacterial, anti-fungal and anti-melanogenic properties. Hinokitiol’s properties allow it to target the inflammatory redness and blemishes seen in rosacea and acne. Hinokitiol is effective against P. acnes bacteria, and there is no known acquired resistance to it, unlike other prescription antibiotics.

Read more


Zinc oxide

Zinc oxide — has been used to protect, soothe, and heal the skin. Zinc oxide provides an excellent barrier to the sun and other irritants. It is somewhat anti-septic, and anti-bacterial. When used in sunscreen preparations, it provides both UVA and UVB protection, and can contribute to and/or increase SPF. At the appropriate particle size, zinc oxide is transparent in the visible light spectrum but opaque in the UVC ranges, thereby avoiding a whitening effect when incorporated into sunscreen preparations. Zinc oxide is included on the FDA’s list of approved sunscreen chemicals. Zinc oxide is is relatively non-allergenic.

Read more